Sweet or Savory: Butternut Roulade With Local Artisan Nut Cheese Filling

This week we created a savory roulade made from Lebanese-spiced butternut squash, then filled with massaged kale and French Herb Cashew Cheese. But if you have a sweet tooth and want a twist (only slightly) on the traditional pumpkin roll dessert, then the recipe below is a great way to have the same flavors while also using a butternut squash from your CSA share.

Here's the twist: cream cheese frosting is out, and The Green House Cafe Market's Artisan Cinnamon Raisin Cashew Cheese is in! If you have not met Barbara Woody and Jerri Lane Price at one of the local farmer's markets then scoot on down and say hi. In addition to the nutritional benefits, their fermented nut cheeses really make these roulades burst with flavor.

Butternut Roulade with Cinnamon Raisin Nut Cheese Frosting

This recipe is "southern-sweet" as it's written, which is in keeping with the popular pumpkin roll dessert. However if you have a more "European-sweet" palate, then reduce the sugar in the batter to 1/4 cup, and 2 Tbs for the egg whites. And for the filling: mix small amounts of powdered sugar and brandy into the cashew cheese until it is sweet enough for your taste, and soft enough to spread.

Ingredients:

2/3 cup all purpose flour

1 tsp ground cinnamon

1/2 tsp ground cloves

1 tsp baking powder

4 egg yolks

1/2 tsp salt

1 tsp vanilla

1/3 cup sugar

1 cup butternut squash puree

4 egg whites

1/4 cup sugar

8 oz cinnamon raisin cashew cheese

1 lb 10-x powdered sugar, plus extra for dusting

Brandy (up to 2 oz)

Method:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Peel the butternut squash and remove seeds. Chop into 1-inch cubes and place in a glass baking dish. Drizzle with some oil, then season with a little kosher salt, a generous sprinkle of cinnamon and cloves, then bake for about 45 minutes, or until the squash is soft and beginning to brown on the edges.  Remove from the oven and puree until smooth. You can do this step ahead of time and refrigerate or freeze.  Make sure the squash is thawed completely before using in this recipe.

Grease (with oil, shortening, or butter) a large piece of parchment paper that will cover the bottom and sides of a 10 inch x 15 inch jelly roll pan. Lay the prepared parchment inside the jelly roll pan, and press into the corners to shape the parchment inside the pan.

Combine the flour, cinnamon, cloves, and baking powder in a small bowl and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl or stand mixer: beat the egg yolks, salt, and vanilla for 5 minutes on medium speed. Add 1/3 cup of sugar slowly while continuing to mix. The yolk mixture should turn lemon colored and have a light texture. Add the Butternut squash puree and mix until combined, followed by slowly adding the flour mixture until smooth.

In a separate bowl with clean, oil-free utensils, whisk the egg whites with a hand mixer until it begins to turn to a fine white foam but is still quite loose. Sprinkle in 1/4 cup of sugar slowly while continuing to beat the whites until soft peaks form. Do not mix until dry as this can cause the cake to crack when rolled.

Gently fold the whites into the batter, then pour into the prepared jelly roll pan. Smooth with a spatula until the batter is evenly distributed.

Place in the center of the preheated oven and set the timer for 12 minutes. When the cake is cooked it will pull away from the edges of the parchment and be springy to the touch. Do not over cook the cake or it will split when rolled.

Remove from the oven and cover the cake with a cotton tea towel (not terrycloth). Then place a large board or tray that is larger than the 10 x 15-inch baking sheet on top of the tea towel. Using oven mits, clasp the board and baking sheet together and flip the cake upside down to invert it onto the cloth-covered board. Remove the parchment paper and fold one edge of the tea towel over the edge of the cake, then begin to gently roll the cake and towel together. Doing this while the cake is hot out of the oven will help it to shape into a spiral. Let cool. Tip: If you want more small slices, roll the long side of the cake. If you want fewer large slices, roll the short side.

Meanwhile, make the frosting by gently combining the Cinnamon Raisin Cashew Cheese with the powdered sugar and brandy. Add sugar and brandy a little at a time, tasting for sweetness and checking for a soft, spreadable texture.  If the icing is over-mixed it will turn to a fudge-like consistency (which tastes really nice if you want fudge, but is not great for spreading on a roll cake).

When the cake is cooled, gently unroll. Spread the icing over the cake, then roll again and let rest on the seam. Dust with powdered sugar and garnish with chopped pecans.

Savory Butternut Roulade with French Herb Cashew Cheese and Kale

Ingredients:

2 small butternut squash, or 1 large (about 3 lbs)

1/2 cup all purpose flour

1 tsp baking powder

4 eggs, separated

1/4 cup chopped onion

4 cloves of fresh garlic

olive oil

juice from one lemon

Lebanese spice blend or a mixture of mint, cumin, coriander seed, chiles, cinnamon, onion, garlic, black pepper, and cardamom

kosher or sea salt to taste

1 Tbs honey (optional)

1 bunch of kale

8 oz French Herb Cashew Cheese

Sauce:

1/2 cup fresh mint leaves

1/4 cup almond milk

2 oz French Herb Cashew Cheese

Method:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Remove stems from the kale, wash the leaves and spin or pat dry with a cloth.  Chop finely, then place in a bowl with a little salt and some olive oil. Massage until the kale turns bright green. Set aside.

Grease (with oil, shortening, or butter) a large piece of parchment paper that will cover the bottom and sides of a 10 inch x 15 inch jelly roll pan. Lay the prepared parchment inside the jelly roll pan, and press into the corners to shape the parchment inside the pan.

Combine the flour and baking powder in a small bowl and set aside.

Peel the butternut squash and remove seeds. Chop into 1-inch cubes and place in a glass baking dish. Drizzle with some oil, then season with a little kosher salt, and the Lebanese spices. Then bake for about 45 minutes, or until the squash is soft and beginning to brown on the edges.  Remove from the oven and place in a blender or food processor with the chopped onion, garlic, lemon juice, and honey. Puree until smooth, or leave a little texture if so desired. Season to taste. Place the puree mixture in a stand mixer or a large bowl. Mix in the egg yolks until combined, then slowly add the flour until combined evenly.

In a separate bowl with clean, oil-free utensils, whisk the egg whites with a hand mixer until soft peaks form. Do not mix until dry as this can cause the cake to crack when rolled.

Gently fold the whites into the batter, then pour into the prepared jelly roll pan. Smooth with a spatula until the batter is evenly distributed.

Place in the center of the preheated oven and set the timer for 12 minutes. When the cake is cooked it will pull away from the edges of the parchment and be springy to the touch. Do not over cook the cake or it will split when rolled.

Remove from the oven and cover the cake with a cotton tea towel (not terrycloth). Then place a large board or tray that is larger than the 10 x 15-inch baking sheet on top of the tea towel. Using oven mits, clasp the board and baking sheet together and flip the cake upside down to invert it onto the cloth-covered board. Remove the parchment paper and fold one edge of the tea towel over the edge of the cake, then begin to gently roll the cake and towel together. Doing this while the cake is hot out of the oven will help it to shape into a spiral. Let cool. Tip: If you want more small slices, roll the long side of the cake. If you want fewer large slices, roll the short side.

When the cake is cooled, gently unroll and spread the French Herb Cashew Cheese over the surface of the cake, then a layer of massaged kale. Carefully roll again and tuck the towel around the outside to hold in place until ready to serve

Prepare the sauce: Puree the mint, 2 oz French Herb Cashew Cheese, and milk until smooth.  Slice the roulade and drizzle each serving with a little mint sauce.

Salmorejo

If you have not traveled to Andalusia, Spain or have not been watching Anthony Bourdain marathons on Netflix, you maybe have never heard of Salmorejo. Essentially it is a cold tomato soup or sauce that is a traditional dish in Andalusia. It's similar to a gazpacho, but has a smooth and creamy texture from pureeing olive oil and bread with tomatoes, then flavoring with sherry vinegar. There are many variations to be found online, but this one is simple, quick, and full of flavor. For the garlic lovers out there, a recipe with only one clove of garlic might seem silly. However the flavors of this sauce are subtle, and can be easily overpowered by too much garlic. The dish is superb as a cold soup, but with the Spanish tapas culture as inspiration, using the puree as a sauce is full of possibilities. So if you have not been to Main Street Meats, maybe this post will convince you to wander down to Main Street. You can pick up a fresh Baguette at Niedlov's Breadworks, then pop in next door to sample an impressive selection of aged charcuterie.

Ingredients:

1 lb ripe tomatoes, cores removed

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 clove of fresh garlic

3 oz stale bread, crusts removed

1 Tbs sherry vinegar

Kosher salt and pepper to taste

Method:

Place all ingredients in a blender and puree until they have a very smooth and creamy texture. Add water to thin if you are having as a soup, or leave thick if using as a dressing or sauce. Chill for a few hours before serving with cured meats, boiled egg, and a drizzle of olive oil.

To make sandwiches as pictured below: Slice fresh french bread, spread salmorejo over the bread, then top with salami, cecina, or lomo cured meats.

Zephyr Squash Soup

Ingredients:

2 lbs zephyr squash (or other summer squash such as pattypan, zucchini, etc.)

1 large yellow onion

3-4 cloves of garlic, chopped

1 cube of Rapunzel vegetable bouillon with sea salt & herbs, plus 3-4 cups of boiling water

Olive or canola oil

Dry white wine

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Method:

The soup has the best flavor if you caramelize some of the natural sugars in the squash and onion. There are several ways to do this: grilling, baking, or sauteing the squash, and caramelizing onions in a heavy skillet or pan. If you don't have time to caramelize, then you can simply simmer the ingredients in the vegetable stock until tender, but the overall flavors of the soup will be more mild.

Our favorite, however, is to grill the squash first.  Remove the stem and blossom ends of the squash. Cut in half lengthwise, brush with oil, and season with salt and pepper. Heat grill to a high heat (about 450-525 degrees) and place the cut sides of the squash onto the grill. Cook until black streaks appear and turn to color the other side (about 10 minutes on each side).

Slice the onion and caramelize in a heavy soup pot for about 30 minutes with a little oil and salt. (Click here for more information on caramelizing onions.) Once the onions are tender and browned a little, add the cooked squash, garlic, vegetable bouillon cube and about 3-4 cups of boiling water. Bring the soup to a boil, then reduce heat and let simmer for about 15 minutes. Remove the soup from the heat and let cool about 10 or 15 minutes. Puree in a blender, then return to the stock pot. Stir in some white wine (about 1/2 cup), then season to taste with salt and pepper. Warm through and serve.

Roasted Corn Chowder

Ingredients:

4-6 ears of fresh corn

1 onion, chopped

5-6 cloves of fresh garlic, minced

2 yellow, red or chocolate sweet peppers (not green), seeds removed and diced

5 medium red or white new potatoes (about 1 lb), cubed

2 quarts of chicken broth or stock (can substitute vegetable broth)

1-2 tsp fennel seed (optional)

1/2 cup white wine

2 Tomatoes, diced

Cilantro, chopped

Juice from 1 lime

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Olive or canola oil

1 lb of grilled chicken, or your favorite seafood like seared scallops, steamed lobster, or shrimp.

Method:

Prepare the corn in one of two ways: 1) For great flavor in the soup, grill the corn then cut the kernels off the cob. 2) Alternately you can shuck the corn, remove the silks, cut the kernels off the corn, then place the uncooked kernels into a baking dish. Toss with some oil then season with kosher salt, and freshly ground black pepper. Bake at 375 degrees for about 30- 45 minutes, or until the kernels begin to brown around the edges of the baking dish.

While the corn is cooking, saute the onion and 1/2 of the chopped peppers in a little oil. Add the potatoes, fennel seed, garlic, and broth then bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender.

While the potatoes are cooking: combine the diced tomato, remaining peppers, 1/3 of the cooked corn, cilantro and lime juice in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

Once the potatoes are cooked, add the remaining 2/3rds of the corn and the white wine to the soup. Remove from the heat and pulse with an immersion blender until the ingredients have a creamy look, but some texture remains.  Let simmer for a few minutes more. Season to taste.

Stir in diced grilled chicken, or ladle the soup over your favorite seafood. Garnish with the tomato mixture and your favorite hot sauce if you like a little extra heat.

Thai Basil Sauce

Ingredients:

3 Cups fresh Thai basil leaves (can substitute other types of basil if you do not have Thai basil)

1/2 Cup canola or peanut oil

Juice from 1 lime

1 Tbs premium fish sauce

1/4 cup honey

1/2 tsp salt

1 tsp Alchemy Spice Raging Monk Spicy Thai Blend (or more if you like more spice)

3-5 Fresh garlic cloves

A 1-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled

Method:

Place all ingredients in a blender and puree until smooth. Freeze extras in an ice-cube tray, storing in an airtight freezer-proof container or bag after frozen.

Serving Suggestions:

This sauce is great as a dipping sauce or dressing over meats, tofu, or fish. You can also mix it with a can of coconut milk to make a Thai curry sauce or soup.